Serenity Now: Exploring Japan Onsen Culture

9 of the best onsen spots with tips and etiquette 

Burned out from a rough election year, tired from too much holiday cheer, overworked, or just looking for a break from the rush of daily life? It may be time to escape to an onsen, or Japanese hot spring. Soaking away the cares of the world in these mineral baths is the definition of slow travel. The Japanese, including emperors and their families, have been doing it for around 1300 years. As one of the countries with the most active volcanoes in the world, it’s not surprising that Japan is overflowing with approximately 25,000 hot spring sources throughout the country and 3000 bathing establishments and inns (ryokans) around them. An onsen can be an open-air public bath or a private pool in a ryokan or home.

The onsen is of core importance in Japanese cultural life. These pools of hot mineral-rich water were originally thought to cure a myriad of physical ills, with the specific cure dependent on which minerals were present in the water. Now the baths are enjoyed just as much for their ability to heal the emotional or psychological ills of modern life, like stress and anxiety. Luckily you don’t have to be Japanese to enjoy the restorative benefits of an onsen (but you do have to follow the strict rules for their use). Below are some of our favorite onsen towns with links to more information and sample itineraries. As always, contact us to start planning your trip.

Enchanting Hakone is one of the most geothermally active areas of Japan. Photo by Nichika Sakurai on Unsplash.

1. Hakone is a beautiful town on  Honshu, Japan’s largest island. The town is nestled at the foot of Mt. Fuji in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, the most visited national park in Japan. It’s about 90 minutes from Tokyo, making it a popular weekend destination. It enjoys splendid views of the mountain and surrounding area, which includes the 3000-year-old Lake Ashinoko, formed by a volcanic eruption. Thanks to Mt. Fuji, Hakone is one of the most geothermally active areas of Japan, with geysers bubbling up through 17 natural onsens, which are the source of the public and private baths in many ryokans in the area. If you must have a private bath, ryokans are the answer. In Hakone, for example, at Setsugetsuka Ryokan, all guest rooms feature private open-air baths. This ryokan also offers communal indoor and outdoor hot spring baths.

2. Kagoshima, near the Sakurajima volcanic region, on Kyushu, is nicknamed “Naples of the East” because of its location on a bay and its beautiful mild climate. Here many of the baths are open-air hot springs that take splendid advantage of views of Mt. Sakurajima.

3. Yakushima, isolated from the mainland and featuring a unique terrain and climate, is one of Japan's natural wonders and a UNESCO World Heritage site. After hiking through the awe-inspiring forest of ancient cedar trees (yakusugi), you might also be inspired, as was world-famous animator Hayao Miyazaki, who based the forest in his epic film Princess Mononoke on these trees. Contemplate the wonders of nature and the universe as you soak in one of the many local hot springs.

4. Beppu is known for its wide variety of hot spring options, like mud baths and sand baths, in which you are buried in warm volcanic mud or sand, in addition to the traditional hot springs. The town might be most famous for the "Hells of Beppu,” a series of geothermal hot spring sites that are too hot for bathing but are visited for the spectacle, such as bubbling mud, boiling water, or vibrant colors.

Hike through the ancient forest in Yakushima before taking a relaxing soak in an onsen. Photo by Marek Piwnicki on Unsplash. 

     
5. Yufuin: A picturesque and walkable onsen town with views of Mount Yufu, Yufuin combines charm with relaxation. Ryokans often feature private baths, while smaller public baths cater to those seeking traditional communal experiences.

6. Matsuyama: The Dogo Onsen here is one of the oldest and most famous hot springs in Japan, with a history stretching back over 1000 years. According to legend, Prince Shotoku (574 to 622 A.D.) visited here and bathed in the hot spring. Dogo Onsen Honkan, a public bathhouse, is said to have inspired the design of Yubaba’s bathhouse in Miyazaki’s Spirited Away.

7. Iya Valley: Considered one of Japan's three “hidden regions” and set deep in the heart of Shikoku the area is made up of narrow river gorges and steep mountain peaks, covered in thick vegetation.  Although modern engineering has opened up this isolated area to cars and trains, the Iya Valley remains very rural and very traditional making it a fantastic place to appreciate a side of Japan that few people know. Activities in Iya include boat trips along the river, crossing the vine bridges (for the daring!) that once served as quick escape routes for fleeing armies and some interesting museums, as well as simply taking in the wonderful scenery all around you. Many ryokans in the area offer relaxing onsen experiences with views of the valley. Our guests at Shin-Iya Onnes Hotel Kazurabashi can enjoy natural hot spring baths with stunning views over the valley. The hotel also features outdoor baths accessible by cable car.

Steaming hot spring, Beppu. Photo by Ian Kuik on Unsplash.

8. Takayama is in the mountainous Hida region of central Honshu. It is part of the Japanese Alps, known for its beautiful natural landscapes, traditional architecture, and well-preserved Edo-period streets. Although Takayama is known for its onsen culture it offers a more serene and traditional experience, often tied to its ryokans and its picturesque mountain setting.

9. Kusatsu on Honshu has repeatedly been named Japan’s number 1 hot spring, so you can expect crowds at this renowned onsen. With a population of about 7000, it welcomes about 3 million visitors a year. They come for the robust flow of antibacterial, acidic water that “can cure any ailment except heartache.” It offers free public bathhouses and large communal baths such as Sainokawara Rotenburo, an open-air bath surrounded by nature.

Onsen Etiquette

There are strict rules as to what qualifies as an onsen which were enacted to guard public safety. But there are also strict rules of etiquette governing onsen use. Be a respectful traveler and be sure to follow them.

1. Wash before entering the onsen. You are expected to be clean before getting in the water so make sure to shower and scrub down thoroughly using the tools provided.
   
   
2. Get naked. The vast majority of onsen are gender-segregated and require nudity.
   
   
3. Wear a swimsuit. The few onsen that allow mixed bathing require swimsuits.
   
   
4. Towels. Guests generally bring a small towel with them into the water and place it on their heads or outside the pool but don’t let it touch the water because that is considered unsanitary.
   
   

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